Температура бензиныча?
[quote=хелик;802980]
Спасибо!
(В ФАКе ответов не нашёл.)
Акак вооше его регулировать??? вчера он так чихнул почти заглох . думал что придеться сажать на авторотации . вполете както звук менялся .
в бензойдах я новенкий . верт ПРЕДАТОР ГАССЕР с китайцем 26 куб. (шел в комлекте с вертом ) . за ранее спасибо всем .
а тут вылазит куча встречных вопросов.
- сколько отлетал мотор?
- какое соотношение масла?
- говернер стоит?
- какие положения иголок сейчас.
если сильны в аглицком то примерно так
Welcome to the wonderful world of gassers. They are awesome in stature and frugal on fuel, plus they can be thrown around the sky pretty well for aerobatics.
One thing you’ll notice right of the bat is that they do not have the instant “snap” of a lighter weight electric heli. They can do aerobatics of course, but they do it in their own way. Just be prepared for a little different response when you actually start flying it around.
You may have heard this before, but you must be very careful breaking in a gas engine. There have been numerous horror stories on this forum (and others) detailing new gasser pilots who have toasted their engines from improper break-in or running. The number one way to destroy a gas engine (especially a new one) is to run it too lean and/or too little oil.
There are different schools of thought on this, but basically it is probably best to use a good ashless oil (such as Lawnboy or similar) mixed at a ratio of 32:1 for your first gallon. You can use standard 85 octane gasoline or Ozark (not Coleman) camp fuel. This is a quicker method for seating the piston ring and smoothing out the engine. You will want to set your HI and LO needles to 1-1/2 turns each while you burn through this first gallon. Keep your headspeed somewhere between 1650 and 1750 RPM, for a stock gear ratio. Start by simply letting the engine warm up a bit, then take it into a hover for 1 or 2 minutes, then set it down and let it idle for 1 or 2 minutes. Do this for the first tank or two, and CHECK YOUR MUFFLER AFTER EACH TANK! Have a 4mm hex wrench handy so you can tighten the muffler after every tank to make sure it is not coming loose. A loose muffler will lean out the mix and can very quickly lead to a scored piston and cylinder on the exhaust port side of the engine.
On about the third tank you can start flying some basic circuits and slow forward flight, but NO HARD CLIMBOUTS. Again bring the heli back in after a couple of minutes and let it idle for a minute or two. By this time, you will probably notice alot of back and forth tail kicking and possibly sloppy sounding engine tone. This is normal during break-in and just means you are on the right track. be vigilant at this point that you do not bog the engine in any way, as bogging leads to higher temps and possible damage. Keep getting a little more aggressive with each flight, flying a little longer in between rest periods. By the last tank of this first gallon of gas you can try a few quick climbouts to see how the machine handles them, but be ready to back off the throttle quickly, as the engine may very well bog and die from being too rich. For the most part, this method will take care of the majority of your break-in procedure.
On your next gallon of fuel, you can switch to a good synthetic such as Amsoil Professional Sabre oil, at a mix ratio around 40:1 or 50:1 in gasoline or camp fuel. For a beginner, I would recommend 40:1 until you learn how to tune the engine properly. This will give you a little more buffer for tuning mistakes.
Now set your HI and LO needles to 1-3/8 each, and re-adjust your throttle curves to give you something close to 1750 RPM. Start the engine and take the bird into a hover, noting the sound of the engine. Hover it for a minute or two to let it smooth out a bit, and pay attention to the sound of 4-cycling. This means the engine is running so rich that it is only firing every other revolution instead of every revolution. You will probably hear it go into and out of 4-cycling every few seconds, with the tail kicking every time it burps. At this point set the bird down, shut it off and turn the LO needle in JUST BARELY, about the width of a screw driver blade (looking straight on). Start the engine again and fly it to see if it has smoothed out at all. If you don’t experience this situation, and the engine sounds fairly smooth right from the start, then you’re probably pretty close to where you need to be. The goal here is to get the LO needle set so that you hear and see a “burp” about once every ten seconds. That’s when you know you are in the sweet spot. Remember to check your muffler again for tightness after each flight for the second gallon as well. This is when a lean run from a loose muffler can really screw up your engine.
Next, put the bird in a hover with the engine fully warmed up, and pull some hard climbouts. Again, be ready to back off quick if the engine starts to die. If it does, try richening the HI needle about 1/8th of a turn (to 1-1/2) and try it again. If it’s worse, adjust the HI needle to just below 1-3/8. You may need to take the HI needle down to 1-1/4, but try to avoid it. Once you can climb out quickly with some authority, and still hover with a “burp” once in a while, you are pretty much there.
Now fly the bird around a bit to get a feel for it, then bring it back into a hover and pay real close attention to the landing skids and the horizontal stabilizer. They should appear visibly “smooth”. If not, and the edges have become a blur, you have high frequency vibrations that could be an indication that you are running too lean. Again, bump the LO needle a tiny bit richer (screw driver blade width), and check it again. This should help smooth things out again and get rid of the vibes. Remember, on a gas engine you actually tune a little richer to smooth things out, not leaner as you would on a nitro engine.
Once you get comfortable with engine tuning, you can try running a little bit less oil in the mix, but I wouldn’t go much thinner than 50:1 to be safe. But you really have to know your stuff to run at that ratio without damaging your engine.
Good luck with your gasser, keep us posted on your progress.
В аглицком не силен . мотор отлетал 4 литра .
бензин 95 1 : 40
гувернера нет
иглы не трогали
возил к спецам но он ни разу не кашлял хотя ему дали немного 3 д .
а вчера заглох на висении . шасси напряглись ,но без поломок .
может перегрев ? я пока к ниму привыкаю держу рядом---- вишу хвостом , бортами .
вообще то 1 к 40 это маловато масла для обкатки.
буржуи рекомендуют 1к 32 на обкатку.
так если вы не знаете как у вас стоят иглы то чего вам вообще можно посоветовать.
неплохо бы на свечку глянуть
какие симтомы на свече и о чем они говорят .топливную смесь сказали делать именно такой в магазине где брал ХЕЛИКА.
на литр бензина 95 40 грамм синт масла . лью МОТУЛЬ от кроссовых мотоциклов . мож чо не так мешаю ? за ранее спасибо .
иглы стоят с завода . подскажите на сколько их надо открутить от полностью завернутого состояния . или прото надо добавить МАСЛЕЦА??
только ПЛИЗЗЗ по русски.
так это у вас не 1 к 40, а 1 к 25 что есть очень и очень много масла.
1 к 40 это когда на литр бензина 25мл. масла.
вот вам калькулятор соотношений www.csgnetwork.com/oilfuelcalc.html
кстати мы вообще говорим о зеноахе?
в общем на обкатку масла надо 1 к 32-35
иглы обе открутить на 1.5 оборота и литров 10 бенза летать на богатом движке.
свечка сейчас у вас небось вся черная сплошняком и мокрая.
95 бенз для зеноахов это лишнее вполне достаточно 92.
Движок Китаец DZY-26. про модификацию не знаю. бензин 95 ,на литр 40 грамм масла . масло от кроссовых 2Х тактников (MOTUL) красное.
свеча сухая ,коричневая.
мое мнение слишком много масла
1:25 достаточно даже для кроссового мотоцикла… А он работает в гораздо более напряженном режиме ( кто знает ) Масло Мотюль тоже подойдет без проблем. Думаю что температура в сто - сто десять градусов вполне нормальная.
какие нафиг 100-110, 130-150 меньше у меня вообще не получается либо верт не летит
Ну может и 150… спорить не стану… 😎 Знаю точно что в районе 200 настанет капец 😎
Спасибо за советы ,попробую .
А как там зажигание, регулируется? Вообще если чих, то сразу смотрят зажигание.